For me one of the main advantages of living in the heart of Europe has always been the accessibility of all those world famous foods and drinks you can only buy in the gourmet supermarkets back home: Belgian beer, French and Italian wine, Swiss cheese, watches and chocolate, Bavarian beer and sausages are just a few of those things reachable in only a couple of hours by car from our home.
Since moving to Stuttgart more than 3 years ago, Champagne has always been on my bucket list. I could very clearly imagine myself driving from one small winery to the other, sipping bubbly and feeling very special being exactly there – in the area where all champagne in the world comes from (coming back home with a trunk full of champagne was, of course, also part of that dream)!
This travel dream of mine finally came true a couple of weeks ago as we spent an amazing long weekend exploring Champagne region! We did it in 3 days, however, the region deserves much more and we would be definitely coming back.
Day 1.
Champagne half timbered churches trail.
Our Champagne trip started in the south of the region and the half timbered churches trail was the first attraction on our way. A very enjoyable drive, that takes you through very sleepy and even more picturesque French villages, connects eleven historical churches. Each of them has its own charm and (if you have time, of course) it’s definitely worth seeing each of them. We have done stops 6 to 11 and were not disappointed.
Troyes is exactly one of those unbelievably pretty European towns, where you feel time has stopped. Not only full of amazing buildings, great atmosphere and tradition, but also apparently one of the best preserved in the whole of Europe.
Where to sleep? We didn’t book in advance counting on the low season and were able to get a very lovely double room in hotel Les Comtes de Champagne. The rates were reasonable and the atmosphere very authentic. In addition to this a nice breakfast for only 9 € per person!
Where to eat? Restaurant Au Jardin Gourmand. Very small, very central and very traditional. If you come shortly before it opens at 19:00, you have a chance to get a table without booking.
Day 2.
Champagne route - Côte de Blancs.
If our first day in the region was all about history and architecture, the further to the north, the more it was becoming all about the champagne. One the way from Troyes to Eperney, the capital of champagne wines, we hit the first leg of the Champagne Tourist Route – Cote de Blancs. The route is very well sign-posted, so it’s really easy to follow.
The world capital of champagne – Epernay.
Epernay is home to some of the most prominent champagne manufacturers in the world. The first stop – Moet & Chandon headquarters, that are located in the very beginning of the Avenue de Champagne. Guided tours here are considered one of the best and most impressive in the region. To get very good maps and brochures about the town and the surroundings, visit Tourist Information office just across the street from Moet & Chandon.
Where to sleep? I know, I know… Camping and champagne don’t really go together, but if you prefer buying a couple more bottles rather than paying for a hotel, this place is exactly for you - Camping Municipal d’Epernay.
Where to eat? Check the Tourist Info for details, however, we decided for the big Carrefour supermarket and a picnic next to our tent at the camping place.
Where to stock up on champagne? Tourist Information office can direct you to the closest champagne shop, which has more than 800 sorts of bubbly. Even though located in the very center, the prices are very reasonable and a very nice shop keeper can put together a box for you depending on how much money you are willing to spend. Carrefour has a wide selection of brands as well and you might be able to save 1-2€ per bottle.
Day 3.
Champagne route – Montagne de Reims.
On the last day of our trip we took it slow and drove along another part of the Champagne tourist route – Montagne de Reims, probably more impressive than what we did on the day before.
The route terminates in Reims, the capital city of Champagne province. If you only have time to see two things in Reims, it should be the Reims Cathedral (UNESCO World Heritage Site) and Pommery Champagne House facilities, located just a couple of minutes outside of the old city center.
Things to consider before travelling to Champagne:
- It’s really not all about champagne, so consider visiting other parts of the region as well – it’s very worth the time!
- If you really want to see something outside of the main cities (Reims and Epernay) consider renting a car for a couple of days. It will save you a lot of time and make your trip much more convenient.
- Only the biggest champagne producers are open for visits without prior call and reservation. If you want to visit smaller champagne houses, you will need to do your home work, select them and call a couple of days in advance. This review can be very helpful, if you can understand some French.
- You are unlikely to come back home with a trunk full of bubbly (especially if you travel on budget), even though buying it in big supermarkets is still cheaper than from souvenir shops after your cellar tour. The cheapest one we saw was only 11€ per bottle!
Would you like to visit Champagne? Have been already? What did you remember the most?
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